My journey began in Bogotá, the capital of Colombia, from where I set out to visit the emerald mines. The capital’s climate is gray and sometimes even cold, which was one of my first surprises upon arriving in a country often imagined as tropical. This phenomenon is explained by the altitude, as the city lies in the heart of the Andes mountain range that runs through the country.

After a few hours on the road and a gradual descent in altitude, the climate changes significantly: it becomes hot, very humid, and sometimes stifling. The road to Muzo is long and demanding. It takes between seven and nine hours of travel, even though the mines are only about a hundred kilometers from the capital as the crow flies. Muzo is only accessible by 4x4, as the roads are very steep and sometimes run along the edge of precipices. The journey itself is already an experience.

The town of Muzo is a small community where almost everyone knows each other. It is often described as the world capital of emeralds. Here, the green mineral occupies a central place. The atmosphere is generally pleasant, although the town is not particularly known for being peaceful. It is overlooked by a large sign reading: “Paz, Dios ve todo”; “Make peace, God sees everything”; serving as a constant reminder of the importance of maintaining order.

There are no mines directly in the town. One must take a 4x4 again to reach the various mining sites, some nearby, others much farther away. The Puerto Arturo mine, probably the most emblematic, is located close by. It is distinctive because it is operated by foreign interests (Minería Texas Colombia), and access is strictly controlled.

In the same area, the Dubai I and Dubai II mines are advanced operations, dug in the form of tunnels, and relatively accessible for visits. On the other side of the town are the mines in the Español and Cuna sectors, also older, located near the río Minero, a capricious torrent with dark waters, reflecting the bituminous soil of the region. One can sometimes encounter small groups of independent miners searching for emeralds.

Further north lie the Peña Blancas and Coscuez sectors, much more remote and accessible only after several hours on particularly difficult roads. Some mines there are extremely deep, sometimes reaching more than two kilometers underground.

The Ormicol mine is undoubtedly one of the most impressive I visited in Colombia. It can only be reached on foot or by motorcycle. Hidden in the mountains, it is difficult to locate without a guide. Operations there are well organized. Progress through the rock is carried out exclusively using explosives, as the rock is extremely hard. To advance by one to one and a half meters, about a dozen holes must first be drilled using heavy drilling machines, operated in turns by the workers. Drilling a single hole can take between twenty minutes and over an hour.

The holes are then filled with explosives in the form of flexible cylinders, into which a detonator and a fuse are inserted. After ignition, the person in charge takes shelter in a cavity designed for this purpose. One must then wait between one and a half to two hours for the smoke to dissipate and for the area to become accessible again.

At that moment, one question is on everyone’s mind: are there any emeralds? However, the geologist and the safety officer quickly remind everyone of the instructions. Light bulbs damaged by the explosion must be replaced, and the air quality remains insufficient due to carbon monoxide. The tunnel, which stretches for several kilometers, must be evacuated quickly, as prolonged exposure can be fatal in less than twenty minutes. Ventilation systems are then activated to renew the air.

Emerald production is a long and difficult process. Working conditions are demanding, and the nature of the terrain makes extraction complex. On site, it becomes easy to understand why this mineral is so precious.

Visiting the mines of Muzo is a striking experience, offering a concrete understanding of the realities of this unique environment.